Artigenda
Bikini Day
Wanneer: jaarlijks, 5 juli.
On July 5, 1946, French fashion designer Louis Réard (October 10, 1896 – September 16, 1984) made world history. Not he alone, by the way. Thanks to the help of Micheline Bernardini, he probably never would have succeeded. On this day, the world was introduced to his design: the bikini.
First bikini
Before Réard showed his bikini to the world, Jacques Heim had preceded him. He had given the existing swimming costume a makeover in 1932 and called it the Atome. This was a two-piece swimming costume made of wool, with the stomach still largely covered. Réard’s model went further and now the navel was also visible. That was precisely why he needed the help of Bernardini. She was working as a nude dancer at the Casino de Paris. None of the other models Heim approached were keen to show off the garment. Réard explicitly chose the name bikini because of the tests with atomic weapons carried out at this atoll in Micronesia by the United States between 1946 and 1858. He wanted his design to hit like a (nuclear) bomb.
The design did have an effect. It led almost immediately to a ban issued by the Vatican. This followed after Bernardini showed the swimming outfit at the Piscine Molitor in Paris. Under pressure from various religious organisations, Hollywood banned the use of bikinis based on the Hayes Code in films. This was to last until 1965. The Miss World organisation also banned the garment, but was not consistent. As a result, the garment gained popularity, albeit slowly.In 1953, the Spanish city of Benidorm was the first major seaside resort to allow the wearing of this garment. For that, we can thank: Pedro Zaragoza. He had to ask permission for it from dictator Franco, though. Speaking of a beach, what about French actress Brigitte Bardot in 1953? During the Cannes Film Festival, she was photographed in bikini on the Cannes beach. That was just not on film footage. That only followed later, after 1965. Perhaps because a song was even made about it.
Itsy bitsy teenie weenie yellow polka dot bikini
Oh, the creativity! Itsy bitsy teenie weenie yellow polka dot bikini.
Brian Hyland (12 November 1943) became known for it, but the song was not written by him. The song’s writers were Paul Vance (1929 – 2022) and Lee Pockriss (20 January 1924 – 14 November 2011). Numerous more recordings would follow after Hyland. Only he became best known for it. The song was first released in 1960 and reached the number one position on the Billboard Hot 100, and after that, it was only a matter of time before it became a world hit.
Much older
Although Réard’s introduction in 1946 caused a breakthrough, the idea was not new.
The picture shows a woman dressed in a bikini. The picture was taken at Villa del Casale in Sicily. The mosaic was made in the fourth century. Only in Classical Antiquity, the garment was known by another name: subligaria. Incidentally, that is not the only example in history. There are other known examples of garments that resembled the modern bikini. Especially during athletics, this proved to be a good garment. The desire to come up with ‘something’ without sleeves was heard more often. In 1907, for instance, Australian swimmer and artist Annette Kellerman was arrested on Boston beach when she appeared there in a sleeveless swimming costume. This was considered “lewd.” Remarkably, this was not her idea. She had seen this idea in England. It did not stop her from continuing to wear this swimming costume. Two years later, she was photographed wearing this swimming costume again. Looking at the photo from back then, there is very little “lewd” about it.
In Europe, it was accepted, this swimwear. In the United States, it wasn’t. Thanks to changing attitudes about staying by the water or the beach, fashion designers also started thinking about swimwear. So there came swimming costumes consisting of two parts. Even on the silver screen. For instance, what actress Jane Wymann wore in 1935 did look a lot like a bikini. Only this wasn’t it. Take a look at the design.
More versions
The introduction of the bikini wasn’t the end of the innovations. It was an inspiration for others to continue
The arrival of the bikini did not mean the end. Other options and possibilities were then considered. This was mainly due to the popularity of the bikini. Designers sometimes wanted to achieve the same. In addition, they wanted to respond to a certain need that existed or move with trends. Hence, bikinis from then are different from today. Variants derived from the bikini also appeared.
The monokini
Also known as the unikini or simply topless. This dates back to a period in time when people weren’t that progressive. The monokini was introduced in 1964 as a successor to the bikini by Rudi Gernreich (August 8, 1922 – April 21, 1985). Although you can question whether it was actually ‘designing’.
The bandeau
Things become rather confusing when it comes down to the bandau. This has to do with the introduction of the bandeau. The bandeau was introduced earlier than a bikini and dates back to the 1940s. Well, not just that. It even dates back to Classical Antiquity. Even in the 1920s, ladies were already wearing these bandages. The same was the case in the 1940s. When the bikini was introduced, the bandeau somewhat disappeared into the background, only to make a revival years later as a variation of the bikini. So actually that’s not quite right.
The bandeaukini/bandini
Let’s make things even more complicated! Or, not… It depends on what you consider as complicating. It has to do with the bandeaukini or the bandini. It’s a bikini without straps over the shoulders with a bikini bottom. Only it’s just a bandeau with an extra. Just as the bandeau is, the bandeaukini can be traced back to the Classical Antiquity.
The trikini
The chances of you knowing that one is pretty slim because it was only around for a short while. That was in the summer of 1967, with a revival around 1990 and 2000, a flop in 2007 that resembled it and a miscalculation in 2008 (this version did consist of two garments after all). Officially, it consisted of three garments, hence the name. People sweetly described it as a “handkerchief with two small dishes.”
The thong bikini/stringkini
In 1974, the string bikini or thong bikini was introduced. Adored by some, reviled by others. It has all the characteristics of a bikini, only with just a little less fabric in certain areas. Around the waist. In any case, it is not as if a famous Brazilian photo model would have been responsible for the introduction of this thong bikini because she did not have enough swimwear. The introduction took place during the opening of Le Petite Centre in New Orleans. Responsible for commissioning the design were Glen Tortorich and his wife Brandi Perret-DuJon. They were inspired by a picture in Women’s Wear Daily showing a photographic model from Brazil in a thong and then commissioned Peter Dasigner to create the design. The fashion show was then widely covered by local media and international media (including the Associated Press and United Press International). The two clients could not have imagined a better start to their business.
The sling bikini/suspender bikini
Other names include the slingshot bikini, slingshot or suspender bikini. This garment consists of one piece and, like the thong bikini, has as little coverage as possible. The ties are not around the hips, but they go up through the sides. The sides of the upper body are therefore largely uncovered. This was another controversial version, introduced in 1994. With the introduction of lycra, it was possible to market all kinds of variants. In the 1990s, it was a popular garment on the beaches of France and Spain, among others. People in the United States were especially angry, as they thought it was all going way too far.
De microbikini/microkini
It could be even smaller or more minimalist was the thinking behind the micro bikini or micro kini in 1995. It covers only the most essentials, making it perhaps the most controversial version of all. Who can we thank for it? None other than designer Karl Lagerfeld (10 September 1933 – 19 February 2019). In some places in the world, this swimwear is not allowed.
The tankini
So not ‘tanktini.’ A two-piece version that looks suspiciously like the Atome. This version appeared for it in the late 1990s (1998). Consider this an intermediate version between swimming costume and bikini. Contrary to what some think: the name is not a reference to sunbathing. Instead, the amount of fabric makes it more difficult to sunbathe. The word is a contraction of the words bikini and tank top.
The skirtini
It’s already hidden in the name. A bikini top with a skirt. That’s what the skirtini is all about. Introduced around 2007. In 2011, it was named the swimwear piece or swimsuit of the year. Still, the skirtini is different from regular skirts as it is shorter. The idea is not entirely new, as this kind of swimwear already existed in the 1940s. Until a US government regulation put an end to it. An unnecessary amount of fabric would be wasted on this kind of swimwear. This had to stop in times of scarcity. It was therefore stipulated that the clothes had to be 10% shorter. Another brief revival followed in the 1950s in combination with the bandeau.
Not only on the beach or near the water
Nowadays, bikinis or variations thereof are not only worn at the beach or near the water. Participants also wear bikini-inspired sportswear during sports competitions. Beach volleyball players and runners are well-known. What should also not be forgotten: the bikini is no longer reserved for women only. There are also models on the market for men. So far with little success, by the way. Nevertheless, certain swimsuits may be considered the male version of the bikini. Think of the so-called swimming trunks. There is just nothing above them. It becomes a different story when it comes to the mankini. That is a bikini variant for men with swim trunks where the straps are attached to the shoulders. Whether that will ever be a success, no idea.
Criticism
The bikini has also led to criticism. Especially when you consider that there is a certain idea linked to ladies in bikinis. Famous car shows, for example, have featured women in bikinis in front of car models. Or what about magazine covers? Magazines still show pictures of a certain type of woman. Now this applies to the entire fashion world. When it comes to bikinis, it is no different. That makes a day like this difficult. On the one hand, the introduction of the bikini led to women’s emancipation. One could move away from covering clothes. One could choose to put on something one could swim in or sunbathe in a comfortable way. That did cause something else to emerge. The idea that it was an invitation, for example. Or that wearing a bikini was reserved for certain girls or women. That idea has never gone away and it’s high time it stopped. Did you expect to come across pictures and examples on this page? Then you were out of luck. You were able to read about the background of this day here: Bikini Day. This is every year on July 5.
